Sustainable Food

childhood nutrition

Kellogg Foundation Funds Local Food

Published November 17, 2009 @ 06:00AM PT

When you think of local food, Kellogg is not the first name that springs to mind. No, instead it's sugary cereals (okay, and some non-sugary ones), which are some of the most iconic products of our industrial, processed food system.

So it may come as somewhat of a surprise to hear that the W.K. Kellogg Foundation, a foundation started by cereal maven Will Keith Kellogg in 1930 and still funded by an endowment formed by his money in 1934, has announced $32.5 million in grants to support local food systems, according to the Washington Post.

This news points to the fact that the conversation on local and sustainable foods is starting to make headway. If a foundation that enjoys a close relationship with a mainstream industry player is putting its money on local food -- urban agriculture and local-produce-heavy school lunches no less -- then we know the ground is shifting.

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CA School’s Culinary Arts Program Teaches World Culture, Racial Acceptance

Published August 31, 2009 @ 04:48PM PT

Lunchtime at Aveson Global Leadership Academy.

What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you think of school lunch?

Transport yourself back to your elementary school cafeteria. Are you shuddering at the haunting memory of the combined odor of sloppy joes and Tater Tots? Or perhaps having flashbacks of hair-nets, hash browns and hotdogs?

Kids at Aveson Global Leadership Academy in Los Angeles, California will likely have different – dare I say fonder? – memories of their school lunches than most of us. They may recall that time they couldn’t have a side salad on Pizza Day because the lettuce from their school’s organic garden was so fresh that cafeteria staff couldn’t get rid of the tiny little ladybugs dancing all over the greens. Or maybe they'll remember the exact moment at which the interconnectedness of world cultures really clicked for them the day they prepared and sampled strikingly similar staple foods from around the world.

“We find it really important to break down cultural barriers and help students understand not only tolerance but acceptance of other cultures,” said Lowell Bernstein, co-founder of Aveson Global Leadership Academy and Director of the school’s groundbreaking Healthy Living and Culinary Arts Program. “When we teach our students about community and the integration of other cultures into our pluralistic tapestry here in Los Angeles, we find that one of the best ways to do it is in the kitchen and around the table.”

As a member of the Asia Society International Studies Schools Network, a partnership of school districts and charter authorities across the country who are implementing creative strategies to successfully engage students in global learning, Aveson’s Healthy Living and Culinary Arts program vertically integrates its international curriculum throughout all grade levels to create an intergenerational, globally competent community.

If you step into the Aveson dining room during lunchtime, you won’t find long tables arranged in rows and settled by the usual public school cliques. Bernstein has thought this through down to the details. “Our students dine at round tables that allow everyone to look at each other and enjoy a shared experience,” said Bernstein who also acknowledged the embarrassment felt my some kids from different ethnic backgrounds whose leftovers may look 'weird' to most kids in comparison to a Lunchable. “By providing them with a lunch, we’re trying to get students to share in their dining experience so that we can support a discussion about what it is that we have in common rather than what it is that makes us different.”

Listen in to Lowell Bernstein’s commentary on Aveson Global Leadership Academy’s Healthy Living and Culinary Arts Program.

School Lunch Momentum of Sorts

Published August 21, 2009 @ 09:47AM PT

School lunch potluck; by erin.kkrThe New York Times ran a piece this week on the policy momentum behind giving children healthier school lunch options, which has champions in the White House and the Senate pushing to add $0.70 per lunch to the federal lunch budget. They highlight the work of Sen. Gillibrand (D-NY), who's gone beyond asking only for more to be spent to asking that it be spent better:

... “If you feed a kid chicken nuggets and canned peas and Doritos and canned fruit as a school lunch or you feed him grilled chicken, steamed broccoli and fresh fruits and a whole grain roll, the difference is night and day,” Senator Gillibrand said.

As part of this year’s work on the Child Nutrition Act, Senator Gillibrand is co-sponsoring legislation that would ban trans fat in cafeteria kitchens and give the Department of Agriculture more power to set tougher federal nutrition requirements for the lightly regulated à la carte program in schools. ...

In recent years however, federal reimbursement hasn't kept up with rising costs associated with providing school lunches, meaning that schools are often taking a loss on lousy food.

School lunches also have to vie for student's attention with 'competitive' foods of minimal nutritional value, such as candy bars. If the cafeteria staff get creative, they must face a student body that's been acclimated to lousy fast food, rarely get home cooked meals, and consequently don't recognize even a freshly made blackberry cobbler as food. Student rejection of prepared lunch options puts lunch budgets deeper in the red, pressuring menus to look more like the fast food restaurant menus that form the template of expectation when children think of 'food.'

In short, the foods marketed to children in general, and offered as competitive options in schools in particular, range from the nutritionally destructive to the merely low quality. But they've been engineered to taste good and hit all the right food addiction buttons, so there's that.

Further, as Tom Laskawy writes at Beyond Green, there's a structural impediment in the USDA to offering healthy lunches, and that impediment is a commodity purchase program whose main dumping ground is the nation's captive audience of school children.

These discussions always remind me of a classmate and fairly recent high school graduate, let's call him Joe, from four years back when I returned to college. My mom was a homemaker who cooked from a fairly traditional template that she picked up from her grandmother and most of my acquaintances now are either of the slightly older demographic who were more likely to have similar food choices at home and foodies (both urban and rural) who can be revolted by the mere mention of a McDonald's. Which is to say that turning down blackberry cobbler without a good reason is just strange to me and so I turn to Joe as a reminder that not everyone grew up that way.

Joe had been raised on pizza (cheese or pepperoni only, please), tater tots, fries, hamburgers and iirc, macaroni and cheese. He was afraid of other types of food and wouldn't try them. I remember suggesting a taco at one point, a ground beef taco with lettuce and tomatoes, that I'd wrongly thought was close enough to having a hamburger as to make no particular difference. Well, Joe would have none of it. Tacos were just too strange sounding.

As a kid, I was also rather fond of the hamburgers and cheese pizza served at school. They beat the heck out of mushy, canned green beans, anyway. But having tried other kinds of food, they weren't all I would agree to eat, nor what I'd have always preferred to eat. I'd had options Joe never dreamed of. Options that made our tastes in food mutually incomprehensible, indeed, almost incommensurable, to each other.

Are the values of finding markets for US farm products and feeding children good food equally hard to translate into a common goal? Are good intentions at the federal level going to be consumed by mere price inflation? Are school kids going to be doomed to choosing between canned fruit and a 'fresh' fruit option that consists of the battery acid oranges and mealy apples that even I remember turning my nose up at? (The fresh fruit at school was never as good as what my mom brought home from the grocery store. I never realized how lucky that made me.)

I don't know. But I do know that it's going to take years, if ever, to fix school food. Kids can't vote and their parents often have a hard enough time trying to make sure they're well served educationally and have roofs over their heads to consistently take on the lousy food they're given. Particularly concerned parents often just opt out and do what they can to send their kids to school with a decent lunchbag.

All of which makes this a paramount political problem that transcends any 'consumer choice' response to a gross market failure. And I do mean gross in the literal sense.

(Photo credit: erin.kkr on Flickr.)

Denny's Going the Way of Philip Morris

Published July 27, 2009 @ 10:28AM PT

Ali Savino runs the food site www.GastroNomalies.com.

Late last week, Center for Science in the Public Interest announced they were filing a lawsuit against Denny's on behalf of a New Jersey man.  The suit alleges that Denny's endangered its customers by not disclosing the astronomically high amount of sodium in their food:

The suit contends that many of the meals at Denny’s contain more in the one meal than is recommended for an entire day. An example is Denny’s double cheeseburger which contains 3,880 milligrams. The lawsuit is asking the court to order to order Denny's to list the sodium content of its food on the menu.

Another meal heavy in sodium is the Meat Lover's Scramble which contains 5,690 milligrams. This meal includes eggs scrambled with cheese,, bacon, diced ham and sausage that comes with more meat on the side plus hash browns and pancakes.

The recommended daily allowance of sodium is 2300 milligrams.  For those at risk of heart disease and hypertension, the acceptable level drops to 1500 milligrams. The Meat Lover's Scramble has 2 and 1/2 days worth of sodium in one sitting. Of course, Denny's is taking one out of the McDonald's playbook, calling the suit ridiculous and frivolous.  McDonald's has been sued more than once going back as far as 10 years for causing health problems in their diners, and so far McDonald's has managed to win in the courts:

NEW YORK (CNN) - A lawsuit alleging food from McDonald's restaurants is responsible for making people obese got thrown out by a federal judge Wednesday.

The landmark legal action was the first of its kind against a fast-food chain to make its way into a U.S. courtroom.

McDonald's spokesman Walt Riker said that common sense had prevailed in the suit. "We said from the beginning that this was a frivolous lawsuit. Today's ruling confirms that fact."

The Denny's lawsuit will be a very hard case to make.  However, as the Obama campaign has shown, its important to take a long ball strategy to public perception.  The long history of tobacco litigation is instructive here.

The first tobacco lawsuits were filed in the 1950s, but almost always failed. The tobacco companies argued that the harmful effects of smoking had been recognized for decades; people choose to smoke and so are personally responsible if they suffer ill effects. Slate: A Tobacco Lawsuit Primer (April 25, 2000)

In the late 1990s, plaintiffs began introducing scientific documentation of the chemical dependency generated by smoking—and proof that the tobacco companies were well aware of its addictive properties. Slate: A Tobacco Lawsuit Primer (April 25, 2000) The first successful tobacco lawsuit was awarded in February 2000, when a California jury ordered Philip Morris to pay $51.5 million to a California smoker with inoperable lung cancer. Slate: A Tobacco Lawsuit Primer (April 25, 2000)

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Bill Establishes Farm-to-School Program in Texas

Published July 15, 2009 @ 09:56AM PT

Hello Sustainable Food people, remember me? I'll be doing my best to help Melissa with content for this blog while Natasha is away.  Looking forward to getting back into the farm and food discussion over the next couple weeks.)

Last month, Texas Senate Bill 1027 passed through the state's Legislature and was signed into law by Governor Rick Perry on June 19, 2009.  The bill, sponsored by state Senator Kirk Watson, provides for the establishment of an inter-agency farm-to-school coordination task force in order to increase the ability of schools in the state to purchase locally produced foods to feed students.

First off, yay!  I'm happy to see that government officials in Texas are taking a proactive role in increasing the amount of healthy foods available to state schools.

With the recent documentation that a full 20 percent of pre-schoolers in the U.S. are obese (yes, not just overweight, but obese), this legislation could not come at a better time.

Among the various tasks the bill requires the task force to accomplish (with my comments italicized):

  • Offer assistance in identifying funding sources and grants that allow schools and school districts to recover the costs associated with purchasing locally grown food products.  (I can't tell you how important this provision is.  The greatest barrier to getting more fresh and local food into schools is cost, and if government can help defray that cost, schools will be much more willing to shell out the extra money for fresh food.)
  • Provide technical assistance to school food service agencies to establish procedures, recipes, menu rotations, and other internal processes that accommodate the use of locally grown foods in public schools. (It's easy to throw a bunch of frozen french fries in the deep frier, but it's quite another to figure out how to incorporate beets, leeks and other fresh veggies into meals--and get kids to actually eat them.)
  • Identify, design, or make available training programs to enable local farmers and ranchers to market their products to schools and school districts.  (Making it easier, and of course profitable, for farmers to sell their products to schools helps to remove another barrier in making more locally produced good available.)

Second, I'm even more pleased to see the emphasis the legislation places on nutritional and experiential food education.  More than simply making it easier for schools to source locally grown food, the task force is designed to encourage kids to learn to appreciate and understand the value of diets that include lots of fresh fruits and vegetables.

The earlier you teach children about the joys of enjoying fresh food, the more likely they'll take these eating habits with them as they grow older.

It won't be until the winter of 2010 until this task force is actually set up and ready to make recommendations on how to increase local foods in schools.  As we've seen before, just because a government program is set up, it does not mean it's going to be effective.

I'm hoping that this task force will keep in mind the health and well-being of the state's children as they're working toward a stronger statewide food system.

(Photo credit: Bonzo McGrue on Flickr)

Ending Childhood Hunger by 2015

Published July 01, 2009 @ 01:50PM PT

Slice of bread; by spence_sirGuest editorial by Jim Weill, FRAC president

It’s always shocking to hear how many Americans can’t afford enough healthy food to get through the month – 36.2 million people live in such households at last count – but it’s especially troubling when you consider how many of the hungry are children. More than 12 million children – nearly 17 percent of all children in the country – live in homes that are struggling with hunger, hindering them from growing, learning and succeeding in school.

During the presidential campaign, President Obama pledged to end childhood hunger in America by 2015. It’s an ambitious pledge and one that he’s clearly standing behind. According to Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack, the president instructed him that “what I want you to do first, the most important thing in this job, is to make sure America’s kids are well fed.”

As a nation we have only six years to reach this goal of ending childhood hunger and it will not be easy. But the Food Research and Action Center (FRAC) has described the essential strategies needed to make the 2015 pledge a reality. They are the measures required if we’re serious about ending the scandal of childhood hunger in the U.S. and bolstering the health and futures of our children.

FRAC’s seven step plan:

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